Race Reports
Kathie Baggott: Marathon to Athens, Greece
November, 2007
The Race
This was no ordinary race! The event started in the city of Marathon, Greece, and retraced the ancient route to Athens. The course was connected to the Battle of Marathon, where Athenians and Persians clashed in 490 BC. Despite the fact that they were grossly outnumbered, the Athenians won the battle. This prompted the messenger, Phidippides, to run from Marathon to Athens with the surprising report that, against all odds, the Athenians prevailed. His run took on particular urgency since citizens in Athens had decided to burn the city rather than turn it over to the Persians. Phidippedes arrived announcing, "Nike!" "Nike!" meaning, "Victory!" "Victory!" which
briefly and pointedly said it all.
The Classic Marathon course retraced the route and moved straight out from the city of Marathon to the Panathenaic Stadium in Athens. The first 6 miles were delightfully flat and lined with quaint Grecian homes and gardens. I commonly saw orange trees dripping with fruit. Locals cried out, "Bravo," "Bravo," and I ran a little taller and a little stronger. A bronze statue of Phidippedes "in action" appeared on the left. This supplied inspiration and motivation, which was especially helpful since the next portion of the course was a looong stretch of hill – about 13 miles uphill! At this point, I can't tell you much about the surrounding countryside because most of what I saw was pavement (head down, small steps).
When I finally reached the downhill portion, I was so grateful that all intervals went by the wayside and the urge to simply run took over. This was a good opportunity to make up time lost trudging uphill. Oddly, the downhill was not proportionate to the uphill, and I reinstated intervals as things flattened out.
Along the way there was plenty of water, piles of wet sponges, energy bars, and assorted nutritional gels. Still, I found thinking in kilometers rather than miles a bit disorienting. I understood that I was at 31k, but I didn't have a good "feel" for what that meant. So, I simply stuck to my planned intervals.
I was grateful and depleted by the time I saw the stadium. It was easily recognizable since it had been my computer screensaver for months. Marble tiers that seat 70,000 surrounded the track with the Olympic rings at the end. I passed over the timing mat at the finish deeply satisfied and exhausted. Goal set. Goal met. I'd established a "personal record" on an uphill course, with a time 10 minutes better than my last Marathon. I fell among the crowd of finishers in golden mylar capes and moved to the place where they removed my timing chip. Despite the limits of language, the Italian man on my left and the Japanese woman on my right shared the same satisfying accomplishment – we were all "finishers".
I moved on to meet our personal Galloway support team. I stood for one last picture, now wearing a finisher's medal, the Parthenon in the background. Next, I spoke with a man from National Public Radio (NPR), and watched more runners cross the finish line. Finally, I boarded a comfortable bus for the hotel.
On the bus, there was one woman still wrapped in her mylar "blanket." She was already asleep in the seat across from me. Still giddy with our accomplishment, we noted that in the stadium, that piece of mylar, tied at the neck, made a great, regal cape; but now, the piece wrapped around this sleeping woman made her look more like a baked potato.
We headed back to Vouliagmeni, the resort area where we stayed, and had little time to rest before preparing for the post-race dinner and celebration. Not only does Jeff Galloway know how to guide you through training to a successful marathon, he also knows how to celebrate it! After a lavish 5-course meal, we were individually called forward; and Jeff's wife, Barbara, placed a wreath of olive branches on each participant's head. They also provided a replica of a hand painted Grecian vase from 970 BC. It depicted the same runners found on the cover of Jeff's Marathon book. Thinking of everything, the vase was surrounded in bubble wrap, ready for travel. Next, Greek folk dancers appeared in traditional costumes, and it wasn't long before most of the crowd was on their feet dancing – never asking where we got the surge of energy for that! The next day, we all had the thrill of seeing our names and finishing time printed in the Greek newspaper.
Of course, lest one get too heady about the accomplishment, there's always one to "top" it. I saw a man wearing a "Run Kilimanjaro" T-shirt and overheard him saying, "That's how we spent our honeymoon." I also overheard a conversation about a run in Antarctica! This was part of a plan to run a marathon on all 7 continents.
At this point, I don't have a "next goal" in place. Likely, that will come in time; but for now, I simply want to bask in achieving this one.
Before ending, I'd like to say I consider the "TO" section at the top of this email equivalent to the scrolling list of credits you see at the end of a movie. Every one of you I gratefully applaud for your part in making this achievement possible. I am humbly aware of how much I have relied upon your consistent encouragement and practical help. May God richly return the blessing!
Marathon to Athens, Greece
November 2007
Summary of the Larger Trip
I must've thought a thousand times, "Pinch me! I'm in Athens, Greece." And the icing on the cake was being with Olympian, author, and trainer Jeff Galloway and his delightful wife, Barbara. They proved extraordinary hosts, in an extraordinary venue for an extraordinary race.
My hotel was in scenic Vouliagmeni, about 45 minutes outside of Athens. This was the choice since there are roughly 11 million people in all of Greece and 4 million of them live in Athens. Our group of about 100 runners needed to get out of the city for pre and post race runs. Vouliagmeni was the perfect place for running along a stunning coastline and for proximity to ancient historical sites.
After a breathtaking early morning run, I jumped on a comfortable bus and headed to Athens. When I got off the bus, I stood speechless, looking up at The Parthenon. On the plane I'd read, "You know AD, now you're going to experience BC." I climbed The Acropolis, on which it rests, with a surreal sense of wonder. I hung on every word the tour guide offered. I reached back to a college architecture class and classified columns – Ionic, Doric, or Corinthian. I had subconsciously assumed that the pillars were one tall tree-like structure, but discovered they are actually thick, round marble discs stacked on top of each other. Also, I hadn't realized that the Parthenon and many other ancient temples were later converted to churches.
After taking in the architecture, history, and surrounding view of Athens, the group headed to the Panathenaic Stadium where we would finish our 42k (26.2 mile) race. Olympic rings were in place at the end of this open oval track lined with marble tiers of seating for 70,000. This had been my computer screen saver through many months of training.
Next stop, shopping. We were dropped at the Plaka, a maze of shops at the foot of The Acropolis. Here was a mix of shops offering high end clothing, leather goods, and gold jewelry alongside low end souvenir t-shirts, postcards, and coasters depicting the Parthenon. In addition, a wide number of charming sidewalk cafes line the streets. I ate souvlaki, practiced a little Greek, and decided that my family probably didn't want Parthenon coasters for Christmas.
Next morning, my run was more a photo shoot. I wanted to capture this extraordinary coastal run before jumping on the bus for another adventure. This time it was a long ride along the spectacular Aegean coastline to another ancient site, Sounion. Enroute we passed the area where Olympic triathletes did their swim. We continued to the tip of the Attica region and reached the Temple of Poseidon, perched atop a hill, surrounded by sea and islands on three sides. This was the Greece you see on postcards! The temple was built in the 5th century and tour guides love to point out graffiti carved by Lord Byron.
Post race: Am I really going to walk all day after 26 miles and a post race celebration? Still, how could I pass on a trip to the ancient Agora with all its archaeological wonders? This was a center of thinking and practices that continue to influence modern societies. The Agora represented the heart of democracy, where 500 council members met, the state archives were kept, and standard weights and measures were housed. It's believed Socrates was imprisoned here. The Thesion was the most complete of all the ruins with a roof and artistic frieze. I also visited the American reproduction of the ancient Greek Stoa (a market and social center) housing a museum with items never seen elsewhere.
Yet, the highlight was the nearby Aereopagus (known later as Mars Hill). This is a huge rock outcropping where, according to the New Testament book of Acts (Chapter 17:22-25) none other than the apostle, Paul, addressed the "Men of Athens." Picture this – an open air, columned supreme court building overlooking the sprawling city of Athens with the Acropolis and Parthenon in sight. Here, according to the passage, Paul begins, "Men of Athens, I see that in every way you are very religious. For as I walked around and looked carefully at your objects of worship, I even found an altar with this inscription: TO AN UNKNOWN GOD. Now what you worship as something unknown I am going to proclaim to you.. . ." He spoke and lives were forever changed. You find this New Testament excerpt in Greek, beside a time-worn set of steps, on a large bronze plaque attached to the base of the mount.
Coming home, I rose at 3:15 for the 4 a.m. departure. I flew on a clear day and looked down on the French coast line. Shipping interests made their way through the English Channel, and I viewed the dramatic cliffs and green patchwork of the English countryside.
It may sound silly, but I wore the marathon medal home. I didn't want to risk losing it in luggage, so I wore it; and, indeed, it was a conversation piece. The woman ahead of me in line through airport security in London described herself as "a classicist" who had worked and studied in Greece. She lingered, fascinated, by my choice to retrace the ancient marathon route. Of course, personnel at each security checkpoint asked about the medal. They were consistently amazed and ushered me through with their congratulations.
On the plane, I could trace my route home on an electronic screen in front of me. While travel can be tiring, I had new thoughts to keep me company. I had flown from London across the Atlantic and was making my way toward St John's Island, Canada. Five hours until Raleigh, and I was eager to see my children.
At this point, I came across a passage in Alain de Botton's book, The Art of Travel. He noted that there are certain experiences that will stay with us throughout our lives and offer us encouragement and relief in challenging circumstances. He referred to these experiences as a "spot of time." Immediately I knew, I had been granted such a memorable "spot."
Kathie
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